13 September Komarno (Slo) - Moca – Sturovo – Esztergom

It’s rather cold today. Only when the sun breaks through the temperature reaches 19 degrees. The wind is NNW again and strong. After shopping for the necessary gluten free bread or crackers, I start towards Esztergom. Using my new asset, I’ve decided to follow the left bank. That proofs a good decision. I meet many cyclists going to Budapest. Following the dyke along the Danube on an unpaved gravel path, I reach a Roman ruin.

This path asks all my steering qualities and progress is slow. After a 15 km I get tired of it and decide to take the paved road. Every now and then I follow the dyke again.

I have lunch in the sun overlooking the Danube. Miloslav, curious, comes over to talk to me. We start in German, but it appears he speaks Dutch as well, since he used to work for a shipping company in Rotterdam.

He tells me that he is currently skipper on the Danube, five weeks up and then 4 weeks off. He has bought a house in this Slovakian village. I ask him why a Hungarian does so? He reveals that the village appears to be almost totally Hungarian, like many others along this part of the Danube. His grandmother never moved but had 4 different passports during her life. In 1910, 1918, 1939 the border changed back and forth, since 1945 to where it is now, the middle of the river.

We talk about economics and he sadly concludes that so much shipyards have been closed and naval companies started to order ships in China. Komarno had a huge one that built 15 ships per year and gave work to 6000 workers.

I share a piece of my Sicilian sausage. His Hungarian pride aroused, he offers me a piece of his own homemade sausage. He wants my opinion on his touristic plans. We do fantasize a little, but he appears quite negative about the political support and the difficulties to make different touristic stakeholders work together. We decide that a step by step approach is best and then I'm off again.

Along the Danube the beaches become prettier, the shore hillier, vineyards appear and the current becomes quite fast.

In the distance an enormous dome rises up. That’s Esztergom on the Hungarian side. A beautiful steel bridge from Sturovo brings me across the river. The pension is nice and I retire for a nap and some writing. Tomorrow to Budapest. The ‘Mediterrano’ a restaurant right next to the bridge serves good food and nice wines. With my Euro ’s it’s very tempting to become an alcoholic. The local wines are gold here and the prices incomparable. Good night!