16 September Budaör – Dunaharasctzi – Szigetszanmiklos – Tökol – Szigetstufalu – Rackeve - Domsöd – Dunaegyhaza - Solt

My friend Viktor drives me towards the Eurovelo route 6. We start at a rather shabby looking outskirt of Budapest. The bicycle path is quite bad, bumpy but after 7 km gets better. After some 15 kilometers I find myself on the main road. Have I missed a sign? I am starting to ask. After the third attempt I am directed to the Danube and a bridge. I figure that this could be a good place to pick up the Eurovelo6 again. That proofs to be correct and I follow the quiet road through beautiful countryside. Lovely houses, flowers, fruit trees and every now and then on my left a glimpse of an arm of the Danube.

This goes on for a while. I stop for an ice-cream. A cyclist with a one wheel trailer passes me. I catch up with him and we ride together for a while.  Henrico from Berlin is also going to Belgrade. We miss a sign and his book "Danube no.4 Budapest – Belgrade" saves us.

After Tökol we split and I lunch under a tree. The planning Viktor and I have done with three alternatives helps me find my way, because Eurovelo follows unpaved dyke tracks that take their toll on bike and cyclist. I have had it, but then a man I am asking for directions and how long this bad track goes on, invites me to eat some of his pears. He has too many and he gives me five. They are nice and sweet. After drawing me very precise directions, I’m off. I go back to the main road. The 51 is very busy and there are many trucks. I push the big blade for about 25 kilometer. Back on Eurovelo 6 that follows a well paved dyke track, I have 15 kilometers left. But there will be no glorious entrance to Solt, because after 2 kilometers I am shuddering again on an unpaved grassy track. Back to the 51 is the only alternative. I finally enter Solt and head for the – at least on the webpage - nice looking Park Motel. But this proofs a grim dump, no wifi as promised, dark and not inviting at all. This is not for me, but this creates a problem. Where then? Asking around does not help. Nobody knows a pension or B&B. It’s getting dark and time is pressing.

I decide not to ask if people know a place, but tell them I need to place to sleep. That is the right strategy, because at the first attempt I strike gold. The man and woman exchange some words in Hungarian and then Janosz tells me, I can sleep there.

Judith and Janosz prepare everything, the bed, sheets and towels. Even my bike is parked inside.

Janosz walks me to the local restaurant and tells that the prize for the room is up to me. When I come back from the restaurant, I find fruit and half a bottle of wine with a glass on the table. These people are saints and made my day. This is what I like about this kind of traveling, the downs and the ups and the belief you must have in yourself that you will find a solution. And secondly after rain comes sunshine. I remember these lessons from earlier adventures in the Baltic States in 1993 and other even earlier trips.